There’s a reason people have been walking the Kumano Kodo for more than a thousand years. Located in the mountains of Japan’s Kii Peninsula, the Kumano Kodo is a network of ancient pilgrimage trails linking the sacred shrines of the Kumano Sanzan. One of only two UNESCO-recognised pilgrimage routes in the world, it has drawn emperors, monks and travellers for centuries.
We followed the Nakahechi route over five days with Home Comforts Hiking, who offer both guided and self-guided itineraries along the trail. Having a guide made a big difference. Marcus kept everything running smoothly, from transfers to luggage to timing, which meant we could focus on the walking and the experience itself.
The days were balanced well, and the nights were just as memorable. We stayed in comfortable accommodation, including traditional onsen guesthouses where the routine quickly became one of the highlights. Walk all day, soak tired legs in hot spring water, then sit down to a proper meal. The food was consistently good, fresh, local and exactly what you need after a long day on the trail.
Day one doesn’t ease you in. The stairs start early and don’t let up. Long climbs through the forest, legs burning, quickly realising this is more than just a scenic walk. But even on that first day, the small moments stand out: a coffee stop on the trail, ice cream that somehow becomes the motivation to finish the last stretch, and a group of strangers already starting to feel familiar.
By day two, the history settles in. Starting at Hosshinmon Oji, traditionally known as the entrance to the divine precinct, you get a sense of what this walk has meant to generations before you. Shrines appear along the trail, some for health, some for protection, others tied to centuries-old stories. Walking these same paths in straw sandals, carrying everything you needed and often facing harsh conditions, you start to appreciate what pilgrimage once looked like.
Day three brought longer distances and quieter tracks. With fewer distractions, the kilometres seemed to disappear beneath our feet and the mountains settled into a steady rhythm.
Day four brings a different perspective, following part of the route along the river toward Kumano Hayatama Taisha. Historically, pilgrims would travel sections of this journey by boat, moving between sacred sites. There are still climbs to tackle, including the steep approach to Kamikura Shrine, where the steps test whatever is left in your legs. The reward is the view, and a moment to pause.
By the final day, the trail leads to Nachisan, home to Nachi Falls, the tallest single-drop waterfall in Japan. Walking the Daimonzaka slope, lined with towering cedar trees, it becomes clear why this place has been considered sacred for so long and why generations of pilgrims have ended their journey here.
What makes the Kumano Kodo special is not just the scenery, although that alone is worth the trip. It’s the sense that you are walking a path shaped by centuries of footsteps and tradition. Another highlight is the connections you make along the way. Conversations happen naturally. You share meals, stories and experiences and, by the end, it feels like you have known each other far longer than a few days.
For anyone looking for a travel experience that offers more than just a destination, the Kumano Kodo delivers. It challenges you physically, rewards you with spectacular scenery and leaves you with memories that linger long after the sore legs have faded.
