I dragged myself out of bed long before dawn, the kind of hour where even the kookaburras were still quiet. A minibus collected me from Mackay in the dark and by the time we pulled into Cape Hillsborough Nature Tourist Park the horizon was already softening with the first hint of light.
Our guide led us quietly onto the sand and at first the beach looked empty. Then I noticed a shadow hopping near the tide line, and then another. Soon the beach was dotted with wallabies and kangaroos, grazing calmly as the sky turned every shade of orange and pink. It felt like stepping into a movie set, the animals silhouetted against the ocean while cameras clicked softly around me.
The guide scattered a small amount of food to keep the animals close while reminding us to give them space. Nobody was allowed to feed or touch them, which made the encounter feel natural, as if we were simply watching their daily ritual. Standing there in the half-light, surrounded by wildlife and colour, was unlike anything I have experienced before.
After sunrise, we were taken on a short bushwalk through the forest to a lookout over the bay and offshore islands. Our guide shared stories of the landscape, from its volcanic headlands to the mangroves that feed the beach ecosystem, before we returned for a simple but welcome breakfast of muesli, yoghurt, fruit and strong coffee. At that hour, the coffee alone was a highlight.
Beyond the tour, Cape Hillsborough is easy to explore on your own. The hiking tracks are self-guided, winding through rugged headlands and eucalypt forest.
I set off later that morning and within minutes spotted a goanna lumbering across the track. Kookaburras laughed from the trees, a sea turtle bobbed in the shallows, and kangaroos grazed further inland. The vegetation itself was striking, twisted coastal she oaks, paperbarks and mangroves, adding to the feeling that this was a landscape shaped by time.
What struck me most was how cinematic it all felt. The light, the wildlife, the raw beauty of the bay, it was like being dropped into a film set, only this one does not pack up at the end of the day. Cape Hillsborough is the kind of place that lingers with you, the memory of sunrise wallabies etched in your mind like a scene you will replay forever.
Cape Hillsborough is about a 40 minute drive north of Mackay. The guided sunrise tour is ideal if you would like transport and commentary included, but self driving gives you the flexibility to stay longer and enjoy the hikes. If you can, stay at Cape Hillsborough Nature Tourist Park for beachside cabins, wildlife at your doorstep and excellent coffee. Sunrise is the unmissable highlight, but the walks, wildlife and scenery make it a destination worth exploring all day.
