Leaving the coalfields behind, my journey to Germany kicked off with a massive 34-hour trek to Frankfurt where I was greeted with a mix of awe and chaos.
The architecture is striking with a blend of modern skyscrapers and historical buildings and trees line the streets adding a touch of nature to this bustling city. However, the number of cyclists is overwhelming, it seemed like they outnumbered pedestrians!
We spent the afternoon exploring Römerberg, the heart of Frankfurt’s medieval Altstadt. This area was heavily bombed during World War II but has been meticulously rebuilt to its former glory. The Frankfurt Cathedral is a Gothic masterpiece dating back to the 7th century.
Jet lag woke us at 5am and we set off in search of coffee, only to find that the only open cafes were underground – it’s a whole other world in the Frankfurt U-Bahn! Once we got our caffeine fix, accompanied by delicious breakfast pretzels and camembert spread, we were ready for a day of exploring.
Frankfurt’s quirks quickly became apparent. Dogs are welcome everywhere, even on public buses. German law requires natural light in all offices, making the skyscrapers unusually thin. Every household and apartment must have access to a backyard or park, contributing to Frankfurt’s lush greenery. They even have gardens on wheels that they move around to comply with the city laws. Despite its business-like atmosphere, Frankfurt has its charms.
A local specialty served at most restaurants in Frankfurt is green sauce, made with seven herbs only found in the Frankfurt area and served with potatoes and eggs, was a culinary highlight. And then there’s the local drink Apfelwein, a fizzy apple cider with a slightly acidic taste. It’s a must-try.
Next, we headed to Mainz where history seeps from every corner. Founded by Roman general Nero Claudius Drusus in the 1st century BC on the northern frontier of the Roman Empire, Mainz later became the birthplace of Johannes Gutenberg who introduced letterpress printing to Europe with his movable type printing press. In the early 1450s he manufactured his first books in the city, including the Gutenberg Bibles, two of which are kept at the city’s Gutenberg Museum.
Walking along the Rhine River was a highlight, its serene beauty contrasting the city’s historical weight.
Worms was next – yes, the town is named Worms! Considered the birthplace of the European Reformation, we revelled in the historical significance of walking where Martin Luther once stood despite doing so in the rain. The crepes and Irish coffee we found were perfect for the dreary weather.
A few hours north we spent a few days in Köhn or what us westerners know as Cologne. Cologne’s Gothic Cathedral, home to the Shrine of the Three Kings, is a marvel. Despite wartime damage it has been restored to its former glory. We also explored the city’s beer culture, with Kölsch being the highlight. Our visit to the Lindt chocolate factory was sweet in more ways than one, and we explored some lesser-known spots, umbrella in hand.
Cologne is also the birthplace of Eau de Cologne, originally a medicine against pox. Literally meaning “water from Cologne”, the perfume was developed at the end of the 17th century by Johann Maria Farina, an Italian perfume maker. The formula has been produced in Cologne since and to this day remains a secret. The shop at Obenmarspforten opened in 1709 and is the world’s oldest fragrance factory.
Our German adventure was a blend of history, culture and unexpected twists. Each city, from Frankfurt’s modern buzz to Worms’ historical depth, offered unique experiences. Despite the occasional rain and challenges the journey was rich with memorable moments and insights into Germany’s past and present. Stay tuned next month for more tales from my German escapades!
